It might also help overcome your old-fashioned joist spacing.ĭid you use rockwool as thick as the joist height? Mine are pretty tall (150mm) so I am wondering about the weigh it would be adding to the structure. We also put resilient bars beneath our joists and haven't seen any sign of cracks. We used acoustic rockwool for noise insulation. What does matter between floors is noise insulation and if you're replacing the ceiling you should be able to improve that. Posted By: djhBetween floors it doesn't matter about breathability but breathable will be normal. Having said that, it is a *really messy job*.Īlso, keep in mind that insulating on the 'dirty' side of the L&P using rigid boards will always leave air gaps in between.Īre those something that can be cleaned with time and patience? I am not in a hurry to get the job completed, so I wouldn't mind going around with a scrapper and pliers to remove nails and scoop out bits of plaster from the joists.Īlso, is there a right plasterboard material to use? should ceilings (in between floors and loft) be breathable? Posted By: philedgeI do regret the bits I left in place. In this case, I might as well just take it all down so I can install the plasterboard straight onto the joists? The site is messy already as I've been using an angle grinder with a stripping disk to remove old paint from the walls which creates tons of dust, so I also bought myself a JSP mask with filters. The message I am getting is that replacing it with plasterboard is viable (please correct me if I am wrong), but the mess and work for removing it completely might be the problem. Plasterboard hoist (they fold up for storage) Buy new or secondhand and sell on when done. Magic - it makes plasterboarding a ceiling a one man job and allows easy accurate positioning of the boards. Some time back when faced with a ceiling to do I bought a plasterboard hoist. Don't be tempted to nail replacement laths, use screws - much gentler on the remaining ceiling than the banging.ĭepending upon the amount of ceiling that is sagging it is possible to screw back the laths with large headed screws to refix the laths but you have to ask if the whole ceiling might be going the same way so if more than a couple of places are involved a better overall fix should be undertaken. Your picture shows that you might be missing some of the battens, in which case these should be replaced to give a better key for the plaster. When I have repaired such I have used normal plaster successfully (a layered build up may be needed). We don't have lath and plaster ceilings here but have reed matting and plaster - same idea though. (I used 50mm x 50mm battens last time I did this but I have also seen 30mm x 50mm used (AKA roofing tile battens))Ī consideration in what ever you decide can be driven by any decorative architrave you may want to keep. Once the ceiling has been pulled down all the remaining nails have to be either removed or banged in unless battens are fixed to the joists to carry the new ceiling.īattening over the existing ceiling is also an option as this can give better support to the old ceiling and the battens can be spaced to match the PB sheets to reduce waste and cutting. Removing a lath and plaster ceiling is a lot of work and mess. Over here the often used practice is to leave the old ceiling in place and fix plasterboard under the old, screwed through the old ceiling into the joists with (lots of) long plasterboard screws. Question: should we take down the ceiling and replace it with something modern such as plasterboard? Or should we patch it and it will last decades still? If replacing it, what exact materials should we use for the new ceiling? By replacing it, are we jeopardising the breathability of the property? I am all for keeping the house as original as possible, but since I know lath and plaster decay over time and we will be renovating for 2+ years, I am tempted to take it down and replace it with something else, as I am afraid it might give us headaches in the future after everything is done. The house sits in a conservation area so EWI is not an option, so we are going the breathable IWI route (wood fibre for walls and floors).Ĭurrently we stripped most of the walls from old paint and wallpaper back to the original lime-plaster, so since we already in the mess, we are considering replacing our lath-and-plaster ceilings.īefore we moved, a full buildings survey report noted our ceilings are saggy in places and might need replacing. We recently moved into our 1910 Victorian (Edwardian?) house and are insulating it. Hi! This is my first post on the forum as we have just started our retrofit journey :)
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